Restaurant Parcelles, ©Bastien Fidelin
For a restaurant located in the Marais, the name is well chosen: “Parcelles”. It of course evokes these plots of vineyards but also, perhaps, plots of Marais, between rue Beaubourg and rue du Temple. Knowing that the establishment is located on rue Chapon (a capon is a young castrated rooster), everything here evokes good food in the best French culinary tradition.
In the middle of this pretty, quiet street in old Paris – magnificently immortalized at the turn of the century by the photographer E – is Parcelles, one of those very popular restaurants thanks to word of mouth which, in a few weeks, spread like fire in the savannah.
Restaurant parcels
It is true that Sarah Michielsen, the boss, is not a beginner. After having successively managed three Parisian establishments (Gusto, Le Temps au Temps and Routes), here she is at the helm of “Parcelles” in place of the famous “Yellow Taxi” opened in 1934 and which packed up, and its towels, before the first confinement. Two accomplices accompany “Madame Mathielsen”: chef Julien Chevallier, a veteran of Semilla, and sommelier Bastien Fidelin.
Lunch and dinner, from Monday to Saturday, we offer precise and creative bourgeois cuisine in a classic setting on white tablecloths: herb accras with tartar sauce (€8), veal head carpaccio with gribiche and caper sauce (€12). ), homemade country terrine with roasted hazelnuts (€9) or even pumpkin velouté (€11).
“Juicy lamb” by parcels
Then come the dishes, between €20 and €38: pumpkin pie, potato, sorrel and salad; fillet of Guilvinec sea bream with sorrel pesto and carrots, farm purée; crispy beef cheek with celery puree; sweetbreads with brown butter and mashed potatoes, etc.
The Grocery Store / Cellar parcels
The wines and desserts are of the same level and you can book with your eyes closed. Thirty years after her childhood in the Marais – she lived on rue Charlot and went to school at Quatre fils – Sarah Michielsen returns to the country. And doubly so! Right opposite is in fact, on the other sidewalk, the house's small grocery store which runs alongside the restaurant. It offers something to bring home a small plot of “Parcels”.
parcels
13, rue Chapon, 75003 Paris
Monday to Saturday from 12 p.m. to 14:30 p.m. then from 19 p.m. to 23 p.m.
Tel: 01 43 37 91 64
Text: Katia Barillot
08.10.21
