It was undoubtedly one of the good surprises of 2017. As soon as it opened, the restaurant Carbón (charcoal, in Spanish), on the corner of Charlot and de Poitou streets, was immediately a hit: rave press and a full room every evening to enjoy natural, honest and committed cuisine, based on seasonal products from small producers (the same suppliers as those of Jean-François Piège and Yannick Alléno) and natural biodynamic wines.

All in an intimate atmosphere, with beautiful light in the room during the day and tables lit by candles in the evening. And, as a bonus, a “speakeasy” (hidden bar) in the basement, in a vaulted cellar.

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Here, duck breast meat, enormous beef ribs take pride of place, enhanced by cooking over a wood fire (beech, hay and thyme) to perfection and served with crunchy vegetables, such as red carrots with honey, butternut, faitselle, hazelnut etc.

The owners of the place, Sabrina Goldin and Stéphane Abby, have set their sights on the Marais. The first is an industrial designer and the second came to Paris for his law studies and worked in chic restaurants. The couple is behind foodie places like Assado Club and Empanaderia.

After a successful start, Carbón suffered an accidental fire and had to close its doors. But more is needed to discourage our restaurateur whose mother owns, in her native country, a furniture manufacturing factory in Abdijan which was destroyed and pillaged three times during the war (from 2002 to 2007) in Ivory Coast.

“She and my father, who is a doctor, taught me to stand,” he says. The life of entrepreneurs is about stumbling, falling down and getting back up. »

During confinement, Carbón reinvented itself by transforming its neo-bistro into a business selling essential – and essentially good – products! – in the magical setting decorated with natural materials: curved seats in wood and leather, marble tables, stone walls where we can see the touch of Patrice Daoud and Sveto Ekmescic and the eye of Sabrina, originally from Argentina, a country where we do not compromise with the good and the beautiful. Looking forward to the total reopening of restaurants!

Carbon 
14, Rue Charlot, 75003 Paris
Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 19 p.m.
Tel: +01 42 72 49 12  

Text: Katia Barillot

30.04.21

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