My Burgundy, it's back on track

The challenge was not an easy one – replacing Thérèse and Aimé, who had been in place for forty-two years – but the new owners met it brilliantly.

To the great relief of connoisseurs and regulars of Ma Bourgogne, Constance and Maxime Mauras, at the helm since December, have preserved the soul of this institution on Place des Vosges while bringing a breath of fresh air.

The menu has certainly evolved, and still focuses on French classicism. But particular attention is paid to details, such as in this leek vinaigrette striped with horseradish cream and fried onion flakes, both of which bring a nice surprise and "crispness" (€12). The egg mayonnaise, with its pretty dome of mayo, resists the fork and melts in the mouth (€10). The bread, crispy, comes straight from Tout autour du pain, the reference bakery at the top of rue de Turenne.

In the kitchen, Eric Fava, a friend of the couple, came to lend a hand for the launch. Formerly of the Ambroisie and the George V, he was the one who put the menu concocted by the new owners to music.

The dishes also live up to their promise. Whether it's the scallop casserole with its creamy spelt risotto (€32), the salmon, beurre blanc sauce with just the right amount of acidity, placed on a bed of fresh spinach (€29) or the flank steak with matchstick fries and shallot compote (€27), we are not disappointed at any time.

On the decoration side, small adjustments have been made. The red lampshades have been replaced by white ones, which brings in light. And furniture or objects, removed here and there, have widened the space.

"My Burgundy is more than a restaurant, it's a magical place and an institution," notes Constance Mauras. "It had to be respected." She and her husband have even done a little better than that: they've added a few Burgundies to the wine list.