The Unnoticed
Have you seen this new hybrid place, at once a “trendy” table, a “cozy” tea room and an “arty” bookstore? Somewhere in the bustling rue Beaubourg, between Center Pompidou and Arts-et-Métiers, L'Inouvert appeared in March, without warning. At first glance, the address looks like one of those fashionistas who focus everything on appearances: the decor, in marble and concrete, is neat, the furniture matches. But, happy surprise, the cuisine is stimulating and the relationship with the customer is authentic.
Beetroot plate from L'Inaperçu
Designed by Christian Compos, the menu is built around plants. Here, the vegetable is at the center, not a simple accompaniment. He's the main character, not a supporting role. However, this is not a vegetarian restaurant. The quantity of protein is controlled but present.
In three starters, seven main courses, and three desserts, the Franco-Italian chef interprets a bistronomic and traditional cuisine, simple yet sophisticated, organic yet intellectual. In each dish, a multitude of ingredients harmonize around a vegetable, as in this starter of beetroot carpaccio with a sliver of Fourme d'Ambert cheese, roasted hazelnuts, red onion pickle jelly, and a smoky vinaigrette (€9). Not a bad way to start the meal.
Next up: oysters enhanced with a yuzu-ginger granita drizzled with coriander oil and topped with vegetable pearls (€15). But other diners opt for braised endive with clementine caramel and seared scallops (€25), while still others choose roasted baby leeks with miso, tamago eggs, orange caviar, and sesame vinaigrette (€17).
Table of the Unnoticed
The impressive desserts also garnered a round of applause: poached pear with 70% dark chocolate sauce, roasted hazelnuts, cinnamon crumble, and chili oil (€8). Or: a mini apple tarte tatin with cider vinegar caramel (€6). Or even: chestnut fondant with mascarpone whipped cream and black sesame tuiles (€10).
A short menu, pretty plates, a touch of Asian flavors and a pinch of fusion cuisine, all accompanied by wines from the cellar of sommelier Jeremy Lipszyc... No doubt, L'Inouvert caught our eye!
▼ The Unnoticed
65, rue Beaubourg, 75003 Paris
Tuesday to Saturday from 12 p.m. to 22:30 p.m.
Sunday from 12:30 p.m. to 19 p.m.
Tel: 01 42 72 69 81
Unnoticed Bookstore
Text: Katia Barillot
15.05.23
