Place bistro room (l.), “ Beef fondant (simmered for 6 hours), accompanied by its homemade mash” (dr.) – © Anaïs Costet
With its village feel in the heart of Paris, the Place du Marché-Sainte-Catherine is irresistible. “ Le Marais, it’s fabulous because, very often, you think you’re in the countryside,” says Rémy Guilbert. Owner of the local bistro for thirty years, he opened his establishment here, in a former butcher's shop, with the idea of preserving a certain rural spirit.
It succeeded. Its warm establishment cultivates a certain idea of "the countryside in Paris", with a country inn decor, generously served local dishes and owner's wines. At Rémy and Gorette, his Brazilian wife from Saõ Luis (in the Nordeste), they serve pot-au-feu, veal blanquette and beef fondant, accompanied by vintages from the Loire or the South-West and tatin tarts.
Aligot sausage, hamburger, fries and cocktails at the Place bistro – © Anaïs Costet
No tricks here: all the dishes – from 17 euros – are seasonal and homemade, including the desserts – except the Italian ice creams which come from Raimo. The Bistrot de la place, which we see in a scene from Petits mouchoirs with Gilles Lellouche, plays the authenticity card. For the record, this sincerity comes from a unique trajectory: “In the past, I worked in the cinema as a caterer. However, on film sets, the canteen is considered an essential part of production, which the unions have also required to include starter, main course, cheese and dessert. No successful film without a good canteen, they say..."
Profiteroles with chocolate sauce – © Anaïs Costet
We find this peasant common sense at the table of the Bistrot de la Place, whose owner cherishes the Parisian soul above all else. “The paradox,” says this native of Saint-Brévin near Nantes, “is that today the true village spirit with its local traders and small bistros is found in big cities; not in the countryside which now resembles industrial zones where people buy their baguette in hypermarkets. The world upside down ! » Which he and his wife want, with simplicity and good humor, to put back in the right place.
▼ Square Bistro
2, place du Marché Sainte-Catherine, 75004 Paris
Monday to Sunday 09:00 a.m. to 00:00 p.m.
Tel: +01 42 78 21 32 XNUMX
Place bistro room – © Anaïs Costet
Text: Katia Barillot
04.03.22
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