Restaurant Anne – The Queen’s Pavilion
But who is this “Anne” that everyone says so well about? It's Anne of Austria! The wife of Louis XIII, whose equestrian statue sits in the middle of the Place des Vosges, and the mother of King Louis XIV. With such a pedigree, the restaurant that bears his name, at number 28, Place des Vosges, had to be up to the task.
Which is the case: inaugurated in 2018, “Anne” won its first Michelin star only a few months later. And during an intimate dinner, one evening in March, we better understand why. From A to Z, it's flawless.
It all begins in the walls of the Pavillon de la Reine, named after the five-star hotel where Anne's table is located, like in a manor, we discover Anne after crossing a small courtyard already frequented by the musketeers of Louis XIII .
Courtyard of the Queen's Pavilion
In the small living room, to the left of the entrance, a wood fire crackles. On the right is the restaurant whose cozy library decor houses eight tables and around twenty place settings. Simple and warm, the welcome – as well as the service – is generous and attentive. Which, as we know, is the signature of true luxury.
As for the meal, it’s fireworks. Examples ? Here are several. Let's start with the beginning. As a starter: a tartare of scallops, granny apples and celery, licorice emulsion and golden caviar or this foie gras accompanying a candied artichoke in barigoule with a contemporary soufflé which, too, is worth its weight in louis d'or (or d 'euros; 60 to be precise).
That evening, the dinner for two continues, for one, with almond sole, soy-glazed daikon, clam and lemon cream (80 euros) and, for the other, with a saddle of lamb, marjoram, potato mille-feuille and scamorza (65 euros). And for dessert: a wonderful frosted orange, Breton shortbread and orange blossom diplomatic cream (18 euros). Of rare originality!
Scallops, green apples and celery, licorice emulsion and golden caviar – Restaurant Anne, Pavillon de la Reine
All this, washed down with a beautiful succession of perfectly matched wines: Bollinger brut rosé champagne, with its beautiful length on the palate and its fine bubbles with the scent of wild red fruits, the exquisite red Crozes Hermitage from Yann Chave, soft Vouvray Clos du Bourg, a Chateau Estanilles inverso 2015 white wine with fresh notes, vintages with personality.
A real banquet, in short, joyful and perfectly balanced. The guests at the neighboring tables also all displayed a satisfied look, visibly satisfied to see French gastronomy spreading its wings thanks to the chef, Mathieu Pacaud.
The latter has someone to take after. For four decades, his father Bernard Pacaud has presided over the destiny of the triple-starred L'Ambroisie, on the other side of the Place des Vosges. Like father, like son !
Pacaud head of the rEstaurant Anne, Pavillon de la Reine
▼ Anne at the Queen's Pavilion
28 place des Vosges, 75003 Paris
Wednesday to Saturday from 12:30 p.m. to 14:00 p.m. and from 19:22 p.m. – 00:XNUMX p.m.
Sunday of 12:30am to 14:00pm
Tel: +01 40 29 19 19 XNUMX
Text: Katia Barillot
26.03.22
