Restaurant Parcelles, ©Bastien Fidelin
For a restaurant located in the Marais, the name is well chosen: “Parcelles”. It of course evokes these plots of vineyards but also, perhaps, plots of Marais, between rue Beaubourg and rue du Temple. Knowing that the establishment is located on rue Chapon (a capon is a young castrated rooster), everything here evokes good food in the best French culinary tradition.
In the middle of this pretty, quiet street in old Paris – magnificently immortalized at the turn of the century by the photographer E – is Parcelles, one of those very popular restaurants thanks to word of mouth which, in a few weeks, spread like fire in the savannah.
Restaurant parcels
It is true that Sarah Michielsen, the boss, is not a beginner. After having successively managed three Parisian establishments (Gusto, Le Temps au Temps and Routes), here she is at the helm of “Parcelles” in place of the famous “Yellow Taxi” opened in 1934 and which packed up, and its towels, before the first confinement. Two accomplices accompany “Madame Mathielsen”: chef Julien Chevallier, a veteran of Semilla, and sommelier Bastien Fidelin.
Lunch and dinner, from Monday to Saturday, we offer precise and creative bourgeois cuisine in a classic setting on white tablecloths: herb accras with tartar sauce (€8), veal head carpaccio with gribiche and caper sauce (€12). ), homemade country terrine with roasted hazelnuts (€9) or even pumpkin velouté (€11).
“Juicy lamb” by parcels
Then come the dishes, between €20 and €38: pumpkin pie, potato, sorrel and salad; fillet of Guilvinec sea bream with sorrel pesto and carrots, farm purée; crispy beef cheek with celery puree; sweetbreads with brown butter and mashed potatoes, etc.
The Grocery Store / Cellar parcels
The wines and desserts are of the same level and you can book with your eyes closed. Thirty years after her childhood in the Marais – she lived on rue Charlot and went to school at Quatre fils – Sarah Michielsen returns to the country. And doubly so! Right opposite is in fact, on the other sidewalk, the house's small grocery store which runs alongside the restaurant. It offers something to bring home a small plot of “Parcels”.
parcels
13, rue Chapon, 75003 Paris
Monday to Saturday from 12 p.m. to 14:30 p.m. then from 19 p.m. to 23 p.m.
Tel: +01 43 37 91 64 XNUMX
Text: Katia Barillot
08.10.21
UNE LITTLE HUNGRY ?
Divine brunch at the foot of Notre-Dame
Of course, officially, it is not the Marais. But at Son de la Terre, a barge recently moored at the Montebello quay (5th), the 4th arrondissement is in sight. Moreover, this one is incredible: on one side, it is Notre-Dame flooded with sunlight; on the other, the quays, the book sellers, the walkers, the joggers.
The Enfants Rouges market, everyone loves it
Restaurants, merchants, a photo store, a bookstore... This is how the Red Children's Market presents itself, unique in its kind in the Marais and its capital because it is the only one to offer such a varied and varied range of restaurants. qualitative.
Piccola Mia, the pizzas of the Republic
On the Place de la République, a brasserie with Italian accents has just opened, which quickly made people forget the old Pizza Pino. Welcome to Piccola Mia, the fruit of the joyful encounter between Italian chef Denny Imbroisi, pizza chef Julien Serri and mixologist Matthias Giroud who creates a creative cocktail menu.
NOW ON
THE MOOD MARSH
Divine brunch at the foot of Notre-Dame
Of course, officially, it is not the Marais. But at Son de la Terre, a barge recently moored at the Montebello quay (5th), the 4th arrondissement is in sight. Moreover, this one is incredible: on one side, it is Notre-Dame flooded with sunlight; on the other, the quays, the book sellers, the walkers, the joggers.
Saka, a cocktail bar like in Tokyo
Here is an address which gives the measure of the transformation of the Marais. And it's enough to silence the grumpy people whose mantra is: “It was better before…” No, everything was not better “before” in the Marais. Besides, there was no American bar like Saka, which cultivates a form of excellence that can only be found in Japan.
Jazz at 38Riv: The highlights of May
The only jazz club in the Marais, 38Riv is the temple of cool and swing. Rue de Rivoli, between Saint-Paul and Hôtel de Ville, its vaulted cellars are the home base of the new jazz scene. Every evening, the magic happens.