My Fermentation Coffee by Hugo Chaise opens in the Marais

Hugo Chaise, whose lively, cheerful grocery store is well known, has just set up shop just a stone's throw from the Saint-Jacques Tower, on the quiet Rue Saint-Bon. After a small laboratory at the back of Apollonia Poîlane's bakery, the chef has now taken flight and opened his own café in the heart of the Marais district.

Hugo knows his stuff, and it shows in his dishes. On the menu, a savory kimchi brioche roll served with redcurrant jelly, or a magnificent palace omelet topped with miso butter, which gives the place a neo-bistro feel.

For dessert, a mochi brownie, just the way we like them, soft and regressive, served with amazake instead of custard. You absolutely have to go, if only to enjoy, in just a few minutes, the signature lupin miso latte. A gentle saltiness coats the palate and your lips play with the hint of miso, placed neat on the rim of the cup. It's delicious, clever, punchy, and above all, it's very naughty.